Two Opposite Days

May 25-26
Friday morning we woke up amongst the clouds. The altitude was appropriate and as rare as clouds are out here, we were walking in them for a little while. We were just at the base of the climb up Baden Powell and it was COLD and foggy. We thought for sure that the fog would clear so we had our breakfast in the outhouse of the parking lot there to escape the wind and cold. Once ready we headed out to hammer up the mountain, ~2700 feet up over 4 miles, some of the steepest climbing to date. We finally got up to the junction where we could go off trail for a third of a mile and summit, but we figured there was no point because the fog was so thick that we wouldn't be able to see anything anyhow so we trudged on. We didn't summit, but we were still up over 9000 feet and very exposed at times. The wind up there was unlike anything either of us have ever experienced, and it was very uncommon for this time of year. Cold, wind and fog, a bone chilling combination. All we were set on was getting down the damn mountain. As we descended, as long as we were on a certain side (can't remember what facing) it was bearable because we' were sort of shielded from it, but it was no fun going head on into it, or having it blow you literally into the side of the mountain. Our heads were down and we were just pushing through the wind when we came to a junction... We took the wrong turn and a little over an hour later we were down at the highway at Dawson Saddle. Damn. We didn't know what to do, but we weren't going to climb back up. We decided to walk the highway to the next place where the trail crosses it, which actually wasn't to far up, but the wind was still atrocious. After a while a car was coming from behind so I threw my thumb out just for the hell of it, and what do you know, they pulled over! It was a young couple from LA (Cassie and Johnathan) and they gave us a lift to the next crossing and let us out. They mentioned they were staying at some campground up the road that they couldn't exactly remember the name of. Anyhow, we thanked them profusely and refused anymore generosity that they were trying to thrust upon us. Once we got our shit sorted, we decided that our best course of action was actually to continue to walk the highway down to Buckhorn campground, the old, but still legal 'endangered species detour'. The detour was in place to protect a yellow legged mountain frog. The road walking wasn't too bad and the road wasn't too busy, so it was the right choice. Once we arrived at the campground, the instructions explicitly say to walk past campsite 25 to the Buckhart Trailhead, which would lead us back to the PCT. As some weird twist of fate, the inhabitants of campsite 25 that night were Cassie and Johnathan!! They were enjoying a campfire and we said a big hello from the roadway as we were walking by and they invited us to join them, so we obviously did!! After a day like that, the warmth of a fire was so welcoming. Cassie has about a million and one questions about what we were doing and we loved answering them all, she sure did make us feel like superstars!! Once again, they offered us food and when an orange was offered up, Julia just couldn't say no. She loves her fresh food, so she happily accepted it. Another case of extreme generosity, the kind of stuff that seems so simple to the person offering, but is so appreciated by us hikers. It was around dinner time, so we said our goodbyes and headed for the trailhead. There was a little outhouse that was kind of out of the way, and Julia wanted to use it before we headed back on trail, but I said only if I could come in too, it was that cold and windy. We decided that the shelter, although smelly, offered excellent safety from the elements and so we decided it was an appropriate place for dinner. Ramen in pea soup, yay. It actually wasn't half bad!! The smell of the dinner temporarily overpowered the stench of poop, and so I made the very serious comment that we should just lock the door and stay in there for the night. Julia wasn't having it, so we had to leave. I was a little skeptical about finding a quality place to camp before it got dark, but nevertheless, we head out on Burkhart Trail for about a mile and a half before rejoining the PCT. once on the PCT, we looked at what was ahead and decided to check out Cooper Canyon Trail, about another mile up the trail. Once we arrived there we were delighted to see others already set up. No other thru-hikers, but families. Since it was a Friday, and the camp is only about a mile and a half from the highway, it was sort of busy. We found a small spot by the creek where we set up. There was a father with his daughter up on the other side of the creek and they offered to share their campfire with us, so again, we happily joined them. We chatted for about an hour with Scott and Ginea (?) sharing stories (he has hiked quite a bit himself and his honeymoon was a ten day hike in Yellowstone! Well that was it, probably our longest, most challenging, rewarding day yet.

Today we woke up and got out quickly, making it about a mile before stopping for breakfast. With Julia fueled, it was time to make miles. Today they flew by. The uphills weren't too challenging and there was tons of flat and downhill miles that we got into a great groove. Lunch was around mile 407. Chilly and cloudy. We called Annie and John
and CiCi and it was so great hear their voices, especially little Sierra. On a daily basis we impersonate her with a few of our favorite quotes, so it was great to hear her little voice for real.
After lunch we got lots of miles done and at a good pace, despite a lot of uphills. We both listened to our IPods - Julia listened to Tony Robbins and I was listening to an audiobook by Chrissie Wellington. Before we knew it, the trail spilled out onto a road that led us around the Station Fire Burn area, another official detour. An easy road walk led us downhill all the way to the Mill Creek Fire Station, where we were able to get water, clean up and use the washrooms. Just as we were finishing up, a gentleman drove up and hopped out of his truck to fill up a couple jugs of water. He was wearing a PCTA hat and do we started to chat with him. Turns out, he'a here to help clear out the poodle dog bush that covers a good portion of the next 11.5 miles of the trail. It was perfect timing, because we weren't sure exactly where to camp tonight, and it about 7PM by now. He said that everyone had been camping down the hill, by an outhouse in a field, and he was staying in a little pop-up trailer across the street. He offered us a hot drink and even a whole wheat pasta with a vege sauce! How kind! As we were chatting with him, a few more trickled down the hill and decided to stay here as well. How can you not, when Bill is also offering hot cocoa, coffee and oatmeal in the morning?!? We're probably in for another cold night, it was below freezing yesterday, and so I'm wearing ALL my clothing and we've zipped our sleeping bags together so that we can share warmth. An easy 35 miles to go to get to the Saufley's!